Bern's Steak House

We came to Bern's Steak House on a Tuesday because the calendar was kinder than the weekend. The room was three-quarters full and somehow more honest for it.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: red-velvet maze of dining rooms. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with French onion soup with the cap of cheese intact, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered an Oregon pinot, against the steak waiter's better judgement, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: chateaubriand, the dish that puts Bern's Steak House on every short list. The seasoning was simple — salt, pepper, restraint — and it was the right call. The signature touch — the half-million-bottle wine cellar — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for thick-cut onion rings, stacked and creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was panna cotta with stewed cherries, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

If you are passing through Tampa, do not pass Bern's Steak House by.