Bistecca Tuscan Steakhouse

Some rooms tell you exactly what to order the moment you sit down. Bistecca Tuscan Steakhouse, in Sydney, is one of them.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: York Street basement with terracotta walls. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with shrimp cocktail with proper horseradish, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered an Oregon pinot, against the steak waiter's better judgement, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: bistecca on the bone, the dish that puts Bistecca Tuscan Steakhouse on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — the dry-aged Cape Grim — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for thick-cut onion rings, stacked and creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was a slab of New York cheesecake, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

A perfect Sunday lunch, which is what I came for.