Born and Bred

Walking into Born and Bred for the first time is a small piece of theatre, and that is before any food has arrived.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: second-generation butcher's pride. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with bone marrow with a small salad of capers and parsley, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a glass of port to finish, and then another, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: hanwoo selection, the dish that puts Born and Bred on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — the tasting flight of three grades — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap and potato gratin with a dark crust. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was panna cotta with stewed cherries, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

A perfect Sunday lunch, which is what I came for.