Boucherie Roulière

I have eaten in a lot of dining rooms that try this hard. Boucherie Roulière is one of the few that pulls it off without looking like it is trying.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Saint-Germain corner bistro, butcher up front. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with burrata with peaches and basil, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a heavy California zinfandel, no apologies, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: côte de boeuf for two, the dish that puts Boucherie Roulière on every short list. The crust was the colour of dark mahogany, and the inside was a confident, even pink the whole way through. The signature touch — the bone-in côte, charred and rested long — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap and pommes Anna. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was crème brûlée with a proper glass crust, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.