Cut by Wolfgang Puck

We came to Cut by Wolfgang Puck on a Tuesday because the calendar was kinder than the weekend. The room was three-quarters full and somehow more honest for it.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Richard Meier white walls and California lighting. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with a single chuleta of cured pork to set the mood, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Chianti Classico Riserva I wrote down in my notebook, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: american wagyu strip, the dish that puts Cut by Wolfgang Puck on every short list. The seasoning was simple — salt, pepper, restraint — and it was the right call. The signature touch — the bone marrow flan — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for pommes Anna and wild mushrooms in butter. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was key lime pie, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

If you are passing through Beverly Hills, do not pass Cut by Wolfgang Puck by.