Cut Steakhouse

Some rooms tell you exactly what to order the moment you sit down. Cut Steakhouse, in Singapore, is one of them.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Marina Bay Sands glass and gold. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with burrata with peaches and basil, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Napa cabernet old enough to drink itself, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: wagyu strip, the dish that puts Cut Steakhouse on every short list. There was a thumb of butter melting into the cross-hatch, and a single sprig of thyme on top, and not one thing more. The signature touch — the wood-fired bone marrow — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for hash browns the size of a hubcap and grilled radicchio with anchovy butter. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was panna cotta with stewed cherries, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.