Cut Steakhouse

I have eaten in a lot of dining rooms that try this hard. Cut Steakhouse is one of the few that pulls it off without looking like it is trying.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Marina Bay Sands glass and gold. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with French onion soup with the cap of cheese intact, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Burgundy that arrived too cold and rewarded patience, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: wagyu strip, the dish that puts Cut Steakhouse on every short list. The seasoning was simple — salt, pepper, restraint — and it was the right call. The signature touch — the wood-fired bone marrow — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for buttered haricots verts and broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was tiramisu, just barely too much, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

A perfect Sunday lunch, which is what I came for.