Cut Steakhouse

A friend who knows Singapore better than I do put Cut Steakhouse at the top of a list of three. He was right, as he often is.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Marina Bay Sands glass and gold. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with a wedge of iceberg with blue cheese, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a heavy California zinfandel, no apologies, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: wagyu strip, the dish that puts Cut Steakhouse on every short list. Was it the very best steak I have ever eaten? No. Was it among the dozen I think about most? Yes. The signature touch — the wood-fired bone marrow — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for skin-on fries, twice-fried and thick-cut onion rings, stacked. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was tiramisu, just barely too much, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

Some places earn their reputation. Cut Steakhouse earns it twice over.