Doe's Eat Place

A friend who knows Greenville better than I do put Doe's Eat Place at the top of a list of three. He was right, as he often is.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Delta roadhouse, screen door, no fuss. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with grilled provoleta with chimichurri, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a quiet Brunello from the back of the list, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: sirloin for the table, the dish that puts Doe's Eat Place on every short list. The crust was the colour of dark mahogany, and the inside was a confident, even pink the whole way through. The signature touch — tamales while you wait for the steak — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for skin-on fries, twice-fried and creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was tiramisu, just barely too much, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

If you are passing through Greenville, do not pass Doe's Eat Place by.