Don Julio

Walking into Don Julio for the first time is a small piece of theatre, and that is before any food has arrived.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Palermo corner parrilla with empty bottles signed on the walls. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with shrimp cocktail with proper horseradish, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a quiet Brunello from the back of the list, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: ojo de bife, the dish that puts Don Julio on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — the chorizo and provoleta before the beef — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for grilled radicchio with anchovy butter and asparagus with hollandaise. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was a slab of New York cheesecake, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

Some places earn their reputation. Don Julio earns it twice over.