Estancia La Bamba

Walking into Estancia La Bamba for the first time is a small piece of theatre, and that is before any food has arrived.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: horse paddocks, gauchos, dust on the boots. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with house-cured beef carpaccio, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Chianti Classico Riserva I wrote down in my notebook, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: asado criollo, the dish that puts Estancia La Bamba on every short list. Was it the very best steak I have ever eaten? No. Was it among the dozen I think about most? Yes. The signature touch — open-fire asado in the pampas afternoon — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for potato gratin with a dark crust and creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was a wedge of chocolate cake to share, fork divided, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.