Estancia La Bamba

It rained the whole afternoon I spent at Estancia La Bamba, and I cannot now imagine eating there in any other weather.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: horse paddocks, gauchos, dust on the boots. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with house-cured beef carpaccio, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a quiet Brunello from the back of the list, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: asado criollo, the dish that puts Estancia La Bamba on every short list. The crust was the colour of dark mahogany, and the inside was a confident, even pink the whole way through. The signature touch — open-fire asado in the pampas afternoon — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for buttered haricots verts and broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was the bread pudding with bourbon sauce, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.