Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse

We came to Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse on a Tuesday because the calendar was kinder than the weekend. The room was three-quarters full and somehow more honest for it.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Rush Street power-lunch energy from open to close. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with house-cured beef carpaccio, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered an Oregon pinot, against the steak waiter's better judgement, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: chicago cut bone-in ribeye, the dish that puts Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse on every short list. Was it the very best steak I have ever eaten? No. Was it among the dozen I think about most? Yes. The signature touch — the Gibsons cut, eight inches tall — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us and wild mushrooms in butter. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was the bread pudding with bourbon sauce, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

If you are passing through Chicago, do not pass Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse by.