Ginza Kojyu adjacent — Sugita-ya

We came to Ginza Kojyu adjacent — Sugita-ya on a Tuesday because the calendar was kinder than the weekend. The room was three-quarters full and somehow more honest for it.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: kimonoed okami at your elbow. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with grilled provoleta with chimichurri, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Napa cabernet old enough to drink itself, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: wagyu sukiyaki, the dish that puts Ginza Kojyu adjacent — Sugita-ya on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — raw egg, hot pan, hand-cut sirloin — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for grilled radicchio with anchovy butter and pommes Anna. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was the bread pudding with bourbon sauce, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

A perfect Sunday lunch, which is what I came for.