Ginza Kojyu adjacent — Sugita-ya

We came to Ginza Kojyu adjacent — Sugita-ya on a Tuesday because the calendar was kinder than the weekend. The room was three-quarters full and somehow more honest for it.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: kimonoed okami at your elbow. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with a single chuleta of cured pork to set the mood, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Napa cabernet old enough to drink itself, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: wagyu sukiyaki, the dish that puts Ginza Kojyu adjacent — Sugita-ya on every short list. Was it the very best steak I have ever eaten? No. Was it among the dozen I think about most? Yes. The signature touch — raw egg, hot pan, hand-cut sirloin — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for buttered haricots verts and pommes Anna. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was crème brûlée with a proper glass crust, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.