House of Prime Rib

We came to House of Prime Rib on a Tuesday because the calendar was kinder than the weekend. The room was three-quarters full and somehow more honest for it.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Van Ness landmark, unchanged since 1949. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with chopped salad with too much bacon, exactly right, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a heavy California zinfandel, no apologies, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: city cut prime rib, the dish that puts House of Prime Rib on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — the spinning salad and the silver carving cart — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for thick-cut onion rings, stacked and pommes Anna. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso poured over, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

If you are passing through San Francisco, do not pass House of Prime Rib by.