Ojai Rotie adjacent — Olivella Steakhouse

A friend who knows Ojai better than I do put Ojai Rotie adjacent — Olivella Steakhouse at the top of a list of three. He was right, as he often is.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: patio under the Topa Topas. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with a small dish of marinated white anchovies, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Napa cabernet old enough to drink itself, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: tri-tip, the dish that puts Ojai Rotie adjacent — Olivella Steakhouse on every short list. The crust was the colour of dark mahogany, and the inside was a confident, even pink the whole way through. The signature touch — Santa Maria oak-grilled, Central Coast classic — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for thick-cut onion rings, stacked and broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was a slab of New York cheesecake, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

Some places earn their reputation. Ojai Rotie adjacent — Olivella Steakhouse earns it twice over.