Park Bistecca House

It rained the whole afternoon I spent at Park Bistecca House, and I cannot now imagine eating there in any other weather.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Gangnam tower, white-glove service. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with burrata with peaches and basil, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered Rioja gran reserva, decanted at the table, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: hanwoo ribeye, the dish that puts Park Bistecca House on every short list. The seasoning was simple — salt, pepper, restraint — and it was the right call. The signature touch — Korean beef at its highest grade, dry-aged in-house — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us and potato gratin with a dark crust. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was key lime pie, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

Some places earn their reputation. Park Bistecca House earns it twice over.