St. Elmo Steak House

I had been meaning to get to St. Elmo Steak House for years. I will not wait that long again.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: downtown Indy institution with checked floors. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with bone marrow with a small salad of capers and parsley, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered an Oregon pinot, against the steak waiter's better judgement, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: bone-in ribeye, the dish that puts St. Elmo Steak House on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — the shrimp cocktail, the one that hurts — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap and grilled radicchio with anchovy butter. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was key lime pie, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.