Trattoria Sostanza

A friend who knows Florence better than I do put Trattoria Sostanza at the top of a list of three. He was right, as he often is.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: marble counters, white-tile walls. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with grilled provoleta with chimichurri, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Chianti Classico Riserva I wrote down in my notebook, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: bistecca, the dish that puts Trattoria Sostanza on every short list. It arrived faintly hissing on a heated plate, the kind of small detail that tells you the kitchen still cares about the last twenty seconds before service. The signature touch — petto di pollo al burro after — yes, after the steak — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for fried okra and a dab of remoulade and thick-cut onion rings, stacked. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was tiramisu, just barely too much, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.