Trattoria Sostanza

Walking into Trattoria Sostanza for the first time is a small piece of theatre, and that is before any food has arrived.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: marble counters, white-tile walls. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with Caesar salad assembled tableside, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered an Argentine malbec the waiter chose for me, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: bistecca, the dish that puts Trattoria Sostanza on every short list. The crust was the colour of dark mahogany, and the inside was a confident, even pink the whole way through. The signature touch — petto di pollo al burro after — yes, after the steak — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for wild mushrooms in butter and grilled radicchio with anchovy butter. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso poured over, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.