Trattoria Sostanza

Walking into Trattoria Sostanza for the first time is a small piece of theatre, and that is before any food has arrived.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: marble counters, white-tile walls. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with a half-dozen oysters from the raw bar, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a quiet Brunello from the back of the list, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: bistecca, the dish that puts Trattoria Sostanza on every short list. There was a thumb of butter melting into the cross-hatch, and a single sprig of thyme on top, and not one thing more. The signature touch — petto di pollo al burro after — yes, after the steak — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for asparagus with hollandaise and buttered haricots verts. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was crème brûlée with a proper glass crust, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.