Vlado's

Some rooms tell you exactly what to order the moment you sit down. Vlado's, in Melbourne, is one of them.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Richmond family room, white tablecloths. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with Caesar salad assembled tableside, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a heavy California zinfandel, no apologies, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: mixed grill, the dish that puts Vlado's on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — the parade of cuts from a single plate — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for potato gratin with a dark crust and buttered haricots verts. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was the bread pudding with bourbon sauce, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

It is not cheap. It is, in this case, worth it.