Wakuriya

Some rooms tell you exactly what to order the moment you sit down. Wakuriya, in San Mateo, is one of them.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: tiny room, one nightly seating. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with grilled provoleta with chimichurri, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Chianti Classico Riserva I wrote down in my notebook, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: a5 wagyu sukiyaki course, the dish that puts Wakuriya on every short list. Was it the very best steak I have ever eaten? No. Was it among the dozen I think about most? Yes. The signature touch — kaiseki precision around a perfect slice of beef — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for wild mushrooms in butter and creamed spinach so rich it should embarrass us. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was panna cotta with stewed cherries, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.