Cattlemen's Steakhouse

There are restaurants you visit and restaurants you return to. Cattlemen's Steakhouse is, after one quiet Sunday in Oklahoma City, very much the second kind.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Stockyards City, paper menus, lifers behind the counter. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with country pâté with cornichons, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered an Argentine malbec the waiter chose for me, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: t-bone, the dish that puts Cattlemen's Steakhouse on every short list. It was, frankly, the best version of this cut I have had this year. The signature touch — lamb fries before the steak, every time — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for skin-on fries, twice-fried and broiled tomato with a breadcrumb cap. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was a wedge of chocolate cake to share, fork divided, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

I will be back. With company, next time, and a longer reservation.