Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse

It rained the whole afternoon I spent at Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse, and I cannot now imagine eating there in any other weather.

The room is exactly what you want it to be: Rush Street power-lunch energy from open to close. We were seated near the back, given menus we hardly needed, and brought a small bowl of olives without being asked.

We started with chopped salad with too much bacon, exactly right, which set the tone — generous, unfussy, and confident enough not to crowd what was coming. With it we ordered a Burgundy that arrived too cold and rewarded patience, and were glad of both.

Then the main event: chicago cut bone-in ribeye, the dish that puts Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse on every short list. Was it the very best steak I have ever eaten? No. Was it among the dozen I think about most? Yes. The signature touch — the Gibsons cut, eight inches tall — is not a gimmick; it is the reason to come.

For sides we asked for asparagus with hollandaise and potato gratin with a dark crust. Both arrived hot, both arrived early, both were exactly large enough to overdo it. We overdid it.

Dessert was key lime pie, mostly because the waiter raised an eyebrow when we hesitated. He was right to.

Some places earn their reputation. Gibsons Bar & Steakhouse earns it twice over.